Unfortunately the dysfunctional organisation and polycentric chaos of these conservation intitiatives and bad leadership have failed to get it organised, disciplined and effective, though hope lies in the academic community of Krakow in gaining the support of prominent thinkers and intellectuals in Poland
With the January Offensive by the Soviet Army in 1945, the city was rigged up with explosives by the Nazis with orders to destroy it on retreat.
Fortunately, the Red Army's advance was so swift, the Nazis did not have time to detonate them. Geartner has plenty of time and official sanction by those like the plodding and dull witted technocrat Mayor Jacek Majchrowski to wreck Krakow piecemeal.
The problem comes from what Scruton terms the "culture of repudiation" whereby in Germany "Stunde Zero" in 1945 mean that a wholly new modernistic Germany should arise from the ashes not merely of the Third Reich but also the Second Reich which ended in 1918 ans whose buildings were mostly destroyed as well.Yet Nazi building were pompous monumentalist kitsch in a way that the buildings of Berlin's expansion from the 1840s onwards were not. The Kaiserreich ( 1871-1918 ) was far from perfect but neither in historical terms nor in architectural and cultural terms was is some mere simple precursor of Nazi Germany.
This is not exactly a joke. English critics called the London County Council in the 1960s more inimical to London's historical fabric and more devastating destructive than the Herman Goering's Luftwaffe and the waves of continued bombing raids during the dark days of The Blitz in 1941.
Yet in Germany where it's death as an Imperial Power was dramatic and conclusive, it seems that after 1945 the "imperial past" was to be utterly destroyed, and not just in Western Berlin, with Erhard's new capitalism where no effort was made to rebuild the old elegant streets of Berlin.
This is all the more a reason to preserve Krakow as a symbol of Poland's historical destiny as a nation and the cradle of quintessential Polishness in culture. The recent innovations, for which Henryk Gaertner of GD & K Group and the way the Rada Miejska have given him a virtual free hand in Krakow is an international disgrace.
As Professor Roger Scruton put it,
"Krakow is a symbol of Poland and its culture, a city that maintained its moral and aesthetic identity throughout the worst experiences of the 20th century.
For those who came during the last days of communism it offered the face of hope, and its beautiful architecture and dignified streets spoke of the historical Poland, which was determined to endure beyond the years of oppression.
It's ancient university, its royal castle, its churches with their unspoilt interiors, and its magnificent market square all embody the idea of the city as a seat of learning, culture and religion, and a place where the nation shapes itself by building a home. There is no place like this city on our continent, and I fully endorse the work of CUE in its determination to save Krakow for future generations.
All over Europe the predators are at work , exploiting our heritage for financial gain, and in the process destroying it. Let them not succeed here, in the heart of Poland. For if they succeed, the whole nation will suffer in its soul".

I have to say, as I used to live in East Berlin that the city was rebuild quite nicely, it was the west that was reconstructed in drab concrete. Its true that the Alexander Plaz is hideous - but a lot of that is post communist, there used to be some great examples of 1960's architecture there, they ripped of the honeycomb cladding of the shopping centre and ruined it, as well as wasting empty land by building the dreadful Sony centre on it. The real eyesores in Germany are Frankfurt, Cologne and Düsseldorf, I always say go to Dresden, Berlin, Hamburg or Bremen instead.
ReplyDeleteThe communists destroyed Berlin's Stadt Schloss and the Anhalter Bahnhof to name just two. The Soviet destruction of Koenigsberg was another huge crime. As for Breslau, the last time I was there in 2007 they had turned one of the early Bauhaus buildings by Max Berg into a MacDonald's and build a Pizza-hut in the market square.
@Thanks Asteri. The irony is, as Eric Hobsbawn points out in The Age of Extremes 1914-1991 is that "Communism in power was conservative" at least to a romantic Marxist with contempt for the 'really existing socialist' regimes of the old Eastern bloc.
ReplyDeleteDespite the falsehood of that in many ways, its true that cities like Krakow in Poland, despite the neglect of the Old Town, might have survived in the condition they are now in tact is because the destructive gales of financial capitalism did not have the change to knock swathes of it down.
The same goes for Prague. Political conservatives in "the West" have a lot to answer for, especially in the UK and London in particular in allowing so much destruction of London's beautiful buildings by rapacious property developers.
Communists either didn't have the money or , as in Krakow, did not dare arouse too much anger by knocking down parts of the Old Town. In fact, one of the propaganda tropes of the PZPR was that it saved Krakow.
It has proved far easier for rapacious predators to corrupt the Rada Miejska in Krakow to build skyscrapers near the centre by stealth and by twisting and being finding loopholes in the law to build repellent new Crystal Palaces.
As Professor Roger Scruton makes clear, the Polish authorities have failed to implement town and city planning laws: in Krakow they have been repeatedly told to do this for years and create zoning plans to that effect. As usual money power wins out.
PS I'd be careful of using Breslau for current day Wroclaw if ever in Wroclaw !! :)
"PS I'd be careful of using Breslau for current day Wroclaw if ever in Wroclaw !!"
ReplyDeleteha ha, I know - I use the German names when I can't remember the Polish one's.
If you really want to annoy your self look at what they have done to Athens, once a beautiful neo-classical city, now almost totally destroyed. The authorities haven't learned anything eithe,r they were trying to demolish some of the only Art-Deco buildings left in the city because they "spoiled the view" from the Acropolis museum.
p.s since you lived in Poland have what has happened to places like Lublin, Olenstyn and Gdansk.
@Asteri-most likely you can't spell them and thus can't remember them: that's how in was for me when I first went to Poland. Lublin I never reached but the Old Town is, I believe well preserved. As with Sandomierz.
ReplyDeleteWhilst Lublin is 'typically' Polish, there is also the gem of Zamosc, a UNESCO World Heritage site but essentially only one square and side streets. After which, its a few old buildings and bloki.
Zamosc is connected to the C16 Chancellor Jan Zamoyski whose direct descendent is Adam Zamoyski, the historian whose name I tried and failed to get for the conservation movement in Krakow.
I actually insisted on meeting Zamoyski personally at the Czartoryski Museum in Krakow and did so, only to be rejected-by my own CUE members and not by Zamoyski !!!
( he was disliked for lending out Da Vinci's Lady in Ermine abroad. I could hardly go against that but it was difficult as having such a name in support would have given it a real profile ).
Gdansk is a Hanseatic Town, that is to say "gErmanic" partly in style but more in the architectural heritage of all member city states and ports of the Baltic like Riga, Tallin,Hamburg etc.
Olsztyn I never got to. I was very much a creature of Malopolska and Podkarpackie which was towards the Ukrainian border where L'viv ( or L'wow ) was the capital of the Austrian crown lingdom of Galicia.
Lw'ow will be dealth with soon as it has not been despoiled in the way Krakow has, the reasons for Krakow's despoilation are still a matter for debate: most locals just say "corruption".
Without direct evidence I could not say that on TV. But the word corruption in Polish only is used in the financial sense. I couldn't use it to mean the corruption of moral sentiments or bending the laws.
In Podkarpackie visit Sanok and get out into Bieszczady where wild boar and bears still roam. Sanok is a lovely little Polish Galician town high upon a hill and not wrecked at all.
Krakow's predicament was to have a small Stare Misto but was at the centre of a growing regional agglomeration in Malopolska that the Rada Miejska could not cope with.
If old remnants of the Solisarity past they were past comprehending how to manage the expansion. PO politicians are trendy "neoconservatives" who were even worse than PiS in wanting to "modernise Krakow".
It needed modernisation: but it did so tastelessly , by protecting the Rynek carefully in building terms but stuffing the Rynek with tacky tourist stalls. It actually violates the UNESCO WH agreement.
The document signed in 1978 makes it clear the city as a duty to protect both the tangible and intangible inheritance"-which means not merely the physical fabric but in not sticking gaudy kebab signs everywhere and ramming the magnificent market square with chichen sheds and stalls hawking shitty Gorale tat.
Stare Miasto, that ought to be.
ReplyDeleteI hope you had a good day in Berlin and Potsdam. ;-)
ReplyDeleteYes, the new Berlin is a postmodern city without any real sense of aesthetics. Most Germans like this because both the nazis and the communists were against the Bauhaus style. Therefore modern architecture has to be a good thing.
This is not my opinion but here in Germany people like me are a minority - and have to go to Paris, Rome, Krakow or St. Petersburg to see some beautiful architecture.
PS: It's good to read again something by Roger Scruton. Thanks.